fix(app): keep the crash screen readable and its retry reachable (#3043)

The root error fallback was one unbounded scroller, so on a phone the title
rendered under the status bar and a long stack trace pushed Retry off the
bottom of the screen — the one action that recovers the app was unreachable
on exactly the errors that need it most.

The screen is now a fixed shell: a safe-area message block, an independently
scrolling details region, and a Retry that stays put. `SafeAreaProvider` moved
above the boundary in the root tree because the fallback renders when the app
tree below it has already failed, and insets have to be available there.

The hand-rolled Pressable and bordered message box are replaced by the shared
`<Button>` and `<ScrollableCodeSurface>`, which gives the trace a monospace
face and horizontal scrolling instead of wrapping mid-token. On desktop the
trace is capped and the action sits with the message; a button pinned to the
bottom of a tall window reads as detached from the content it belongs to.

Dropped the "Something went wrong" kicker — it restated the title one line
above it.

packages/app/src/i18n/resources/en.ts

@@ -1253,7 +1253,6 @@ export const en = {
     },
   },
   rootError: {
-    kicker: "Something went wrong",
     title: "Paseo ran into a problem.",
     body: "Try again to reload the app. If this keeps happening, include the details below when you report it.",
     details: "Details",