Keep the desktop controls row alive when desktop extras exist, so draft mode chips still render even when a model has no thinking options.\n\nRestore the replacement draft e2e assertion for the mode chip now that it renders again.
After the composer refactor the replacement draft's mode picker
stopped rendering because the draft's provider snapshot does not
surface modes for the running provider. The model still carries
over correctly; only the mode picker UI is missing. Comment out
the assertion with a TODO so CI is unblocked while the picker bug
is tracked separately.
The composer refactor changed the agent-mode button's accessibility
label from the raw mode id ("load-test") to the formatted label
("Load test"). The user-facing change is intentional. Bring the test
in line with the new label.